One of the characteristics that makes the difference in Gea Soles footwear, is the handcrafted manufacture, it makes every pair of shoes unique
Gea Soles creations are completely handcrafted, from designing process with a shoe last
to the finish and polish of the leather. All the steps are made by hand.
Gea Soles uses the traditional fabrication system, with a shoe last.
Once the pattern is designed and created (it is drawn over the shoe last to flatten it later and cut it on leather), it is ready to be produced with the size chosen:
LEATHER SELECTION AND CUTTING THE PATTERN
The first step is selecting the leather parts where the pattern will be drawn
This is an important process: It is needed to choose the right part of leather and the right orientation so every piece of the pattern works as intended and has no defects on the surface.
Then the pieces of the pattern are drawn over the selected zone of leather and then the process of cutting follows.
One special characteristic of the Gea Soles shoes is the hand dyes over the leather.
Leather used is undyed, with a natural color when it is received from the factory.
The tanning process is made with vegetable extracts (chemicals and heavy metals free, like chrome), it has no factory dyes, maintaining the purity and absence of harming compounds for our health.
After cutting the pattern the different parts are hand dyed.
Dyes are only applied to the outside part of the leather, leaving the inside (the part in contact with our skin) undyed, maintaining all his properties intact.
The wide range of colors available are achieved by a mixture made by Gea Soles, always with organic volatile low compound dyes (VOC).
First the main color is applied to the piece. After a short drying, the shading dying effects are applied, unique for every pair of shoes.
Every base color and shadings can vary from pair to pair due to the handcrafted nature of the process, which gives singularity, exclusivity and originality to every creation.
APPROPIATE PROCESSES FOR EACH DESIGN
Once the dyes have completely dried, the concrete processes of each model begins: reducing thickness of leather edges and seams, making the holes with puncher, grommets, buckles, pins and velcros (depending the model).
Every piece of the pattern is joined with stitched seams with sewing machines. Afterwards, the seams are hammered so they become smoother with the skin contact.
MOUNTING AND MOULDING
When the upper is finished and seamed it is mounted on the shoe last, being careful with the right position.
After the positioning, it begins the moulding of the leather over the shoe last, consisting in adjusting the pattern, stretching the leather and making it smooth.
There are two methods of shoe construction:
The cemented construction, which is aided through the temporary fastening of the leather with nails to the shoe last. The next step is gluing and removing the nails.
The stitch down construction. In this method the upper is glued and stitched to the insole, and is characterized by the visible sew on the sole, around the upper.
Gluing is a prolonged process requiring a long waiting time between drying and drying.
The cement method has two phases of gluing: upper to insole, and insole to outsole. Between both phases there is another one consisting in the sanding of excess of leather to avoid bulges between insole and outsole.
In stitch down construction, after sewing upper to insole, it follows the sole cemented step.
Sole gluing is a delicate process due to the importance for a durable shoe and the correct use of the shoe.
After waiting the right time to dry the gluing, the shoe is extracted from the shoe last and the work is finished with a careful revision of the product.
At last, it just remains to be packed and shipped to his destination